chromexcel
horween chromexcel can also be made in natural. the most popular chromexcel wallet is the
ebay – the amount of chromexcel available on ebay is always growing. search for “chromexcel piece” and it should give you some good results .
chromexcel is a massively popular leather right now. i asked phil kalas from horween about chromexcel and what makes it so unique and desirable on wearable products .
horween leather co. is essentially a custom shop. we will make any color a customer requests. on the standard chromexcel, again because of the high grease content, we are only able to achieve earth tones. to get brighter colors of chromexcel we created cavalier chromexcel. here is an example of the cavalier chromexcel in blue and red (along with the earth toned colors of chromexcel) .
this is very difficult question for me because, as i type this, i am using several products made of chromexcel. i like the alden brown chromexcel indy boots, wolverine 1000 mile boots in their new sueded chromexcel, oak street trail oxford in navy chromexcel, altadina works teardrop pack in natural chromexcel, and i carry a few products around i’ve made for ashland leather co. (fat herbie wallet, key case, passport holder, key fob, belt) in midnight blue cavalier chromexcel .
check this article that phil wrote to illustrate the difference between shell cordovan and chromexcel .
afaik it' s chromexcel cow / calf that' s been oil curried by hand, like shell cordovan or high quality bridle leathers. regular chromexcel is only drum stuffed .
springfield leather – great source for smaller portions of chromexcel and a variety of other horween tannages .
as a matter of fact you do. if you are still practicing or just looking to save a bit of money you can always purchase chromexcel seconds from maverick leather company. chromexcel seconds are just cuts that didnt pass horween’s rigorous final inspection. maverick leather company sells a full line of standard chromexcel, chromexcel seconds, and pages full of horween specials which can be chromexcel, dublin, or latigo. you do have to order by the side but the discounted prices make it more than worth the investment .
chromexcel is characterized by a rich pull - up in full aniline, hand rubbed finishes. made to this day with old world craftsmanship, modern chromexcel carries on a long history of superior comfort and durability .
edit: realized that we are talking about exotic leathers, not chromexcel variants. please excuse what i said .
beaufort is a variation of chromexcel® with a lower oil, wax and grease content for easier cementing / gluing adhesion .
qui, a horween worker, inspects chromexcel hides. the chrome tanning process turns the hides a baby blue color .
what do you think are the best ways to use chromexcel? i understand people use it more as a wearable leather than a structural leather, but then i also know people who use it in bags. was chromexcel designed for certain usage ?
fine leatherworking – fine leatherworking is a great online shop for top quality tools as well as small quantities of premium chromexcel .
the chromexcel equine leathers i find are less prone to scratching than the bovine ones, but bother very tough and durable .
chromexcel is the original pull - up leather; using time honored techniques and formulas that were developed nearly 100 years ago. chromexcel is still produced in the united states using a bark retannage from a proprietary recipe, and then genuine hot stuffed with our secret blend of natural oils and greases. chromexcel is characterized by a rich pull - up in full aniline, hand rubbed finishes. made to this day with old world craftsmanship, modern chromexcel carries on a long history of superior comfort and durability .
a quick video comparing brown chromexcel boots with brown shell cordovan boots. the actual boots in the video are 2. 5 yr old allen edmonds bayfields in brown chromexcel and 2. 5 yr old ralph lauren gianni in brown shell cordovan (made by crockett and jones) .
“i want to order specific colors of chromexcel, dublin, shell cordovan, latigo, etc. , how do i get that? ”
you can read a very in - depth article on exactly how chromexcel is made here. nick horween did an excellent job describing the process .
i have some chromexcel wolverine 1000 miles boots that acquire a whitish waxy look if they sit for a while. what is that all about ?
chromexcel is the original pull - up leather; using time honored techniques and formulas that were developed nearly 100 years ago. chromexcel is still produced in the united states using a bark retannage from a proprietary recipe, and then genuine hot stuffed with our secret blend of natural oils and greases .
chromexcel is available in a full range of weights – including 2 – 3 oz (0. 8 – 1. 2 mm) horsefronts and side (cowhide) leather from 3. 5 – 4 oz (1. 4 – 1. 6 mm) up to 9 – 10 oz (3. 6 – 4. 0 mm). there are many variations of chromexcel, including versions that are cementable and waterproof. click here to read more about chromexcel .
we start out with horween' s famous chromexcel. chromexcel is characterized by a rich pull - up in full aniline, hand rubbed finishes. made to this day with old world craftsmanship, modern chromexcel carries on a long history of superior comfort and durability. the beauty and durability of this leather is a perfect combination for our bifold wallet. the interior uses natural horween leather, and is finished off with a heatstamped gustin logo in the lower right - hand corner .
lucky for you there are a few options available for getting your feet wet with chromexcel. at the following websites you can purchase horween leather in small quantities :
one of the original intentions for the chromexcel leather was for usage in engine and motor seals. this is very cool because they were used for engine seals on tanks and other heavy equipment during world war ii. i personally like chromexcel on a wallet and footwear like a boat shoe because the leather will mold and flex to its contents. chromexcel is sometimes a poor choice for a bag because it does not hold its color very well. due to the high grease content, the dyes / stains used to color the leather become very mobile and have a tendency to rub off on light colored clothing. horween has developed some variations on the traditional chromexcel such as beaufort chromexcel that has a lower grease content. the result is better for color crocking and the leather is a little drier in feel .
chromexcel will scratch and scuff easily — any application where resilience is required i wouldn’t want to use chromexcel. i wouldn’t use chromexcel on any type of furniture / car interior or something that will be in the sunlight all day. the color would rub off on your clothes if it was a couch made of chromexcel (although it would be ridiculously comfortable) and the sunlight would fade the color without a special top coat sprayed on the leather. i also believe that too much of a good thing is a bad thing. variety is good! a lot of people dislike the look of chromexcel because it is a rugged / american type of aesthetic. there is a big prevalence for the polar opposite of this aesthetic: textured italian leather. neither is really better or worse but they are just a different aesthetic .
while chromexcel specifically is only made by horween, there are tanneries that make other aniline / pullup leathers. in my experience though, horween cxl is the best .
it seems in the past couple of years there has been an increased demand for leather from your tannery, often citing chromexcel as one of the best leathers to use .
phil kalas works at the horween tannery and also owns ashland leather, which works primarily with chromexcel and shell cordovan. check out some of his classy and durable creations here .
chromexcel is the classic “pull - up” leather meaning that, when folded and flexed, greases that were impregnated into the skin migrate causing a very nice tonal effect. it also has a very bright luster or can be left unpolished to have more of a matte finish look. chromexcel is a very versatile leather and is often found in boat shoes, classic shoe styles from alden and allen edmonds, and many belts and small leather goods. chromexcel has a “refined ruggedness” and will quickly develop character and having similar aesthetics to your grandfather’s old wallet very quickly .
caring for chromexcel is very easy using saphir' s greasy leather cream. designed to both condition and recolor chromexcel, the cream has a very light, oily texture and applies easily using either your fingers or a chamois. because it has a very light pigment, it is not necessary to
perfectly
match the color. if your chromexcel shoes are brown, the brown greasy leather cream will work just fine. if you are worried about changing the color of your shoes, use the neutral (note: neutral will not recolor any scuffs or discolorations) .
chromexcel, or cxl as it’s written in the building, is a combination tanned leather that undergoes at least 89 separate processes taking 28 working days and utilizing all 5 floors of our facility .
pull - up leather (chromexcel) - pull - up leather refers to the temporary separation of oils and dyes in leather when creased, stretched, or pulled up on. this results in a beautiful texture in color. all our pull - up leather is horween' s exclusive chromexcel, richly touted as an incredibly beautiful, supple, and well - aging leather. from horween :
one of horween’s best sellers over the past few years is chromexcel. they' ve been making this since 1911 and it’s been put to all sorts of uses – many second world war tanks had engine gaskets made from chromexcel - but it’s more popular than ever, for some very good reasons. more and more leather goods artisans are taking advantage of its unique look and feel to create some amazing products .
as good as it looks, though, it’s when you get your hands on it that the quality really shines through. chromexcel is amazingly supple, and molds itself easily to anything you keep in it. it’s never stiff or uncomfortable. a case made of chromexcel will accommodate what it’s meant to hold without binding or sticking, and it feels great under your hands too. soft yet resilient, it’s pleasant to hold in any temperature and won’t turn slippery in the rain – the hot - stuffing process gives it excellent water shedding properties. if you want leather you’ll be happy to use every day it’s hard to beat chromexcel .
saphir greasy leather cream is designed to both condition and recolor oiled leathers, such as horween' s chromexcel. these leathers are infused with oils during the tanning process and are distinguished for their rugged, natural look .
you' re not correct. firstly because the various chromexcel tannage processes can be applied to any sort of hide. secondly because alden' s kudu, most commonly found on the 404 is calfskin, not antelope .
now that we have the canvas ready, we can start the finishing process. chromexcel receives several hand - rubbed coats of aniline (non - pigmented) finish - this type of dye application allows for even staining of the hide
kudu is just a chromexcel variant. there are small differences in the tannage process between the cxl variants. horween produces a list of their leathers and how they are tanned, it' s probably linked in this thread somewhere .
chromexcel is available in a full range of weights – including 2 – 3 oz (0. 8 – 1. 2 mm) horsefronts and side (cowhide) leather from 3. 5 – 4 oz (1. 4 – 1. 6 mm) up to 9 – 10 oz (3. 6 – 4. 0 mm). there are many variations of chromexcel, including versions that are cementable and waterproof. please contact us for more information or for a full list of tannages .
horween' s kudu tannage process is a chromexcel variant similar in procedure to how shell cordovan is tanned. the kudu tanned leather from horween used by alden is calfskin. it is billed as being very tough wearing, however i have no experience with the leather .
when you purchase a product made from chromexcel leather, you can expect that it will last longer than most of the other leather options that you have available to you. horween don’t believe in making disposable items, which is just one more reason why they have been able to stay at the top of the industry for more than 100 years. the process that goes into producing chromexcel is complicated, but the result is simply a better type of leather that will, like horween, very much stand up to the test of time .
the rich aniline and semi - aniline finishes showcase the grain of the leather. chromexcel' s careful tanning process also ensures a comfort feel and durability for you and your customers. not only does it look good but it is able to withstand repeated wettings and still dry soft .
for the most part, the leather is complete at this point, and it' s ready to be sorted, graded, packed, and shipped. the last step for chromexcel is coat of neatsfoot oil, so when people ask me how to condition this leather, that' s always my first recommendation .
chromexcel is very popular right now and it is fun to remember that this leather has been around for over 100 years! we have developed some new products in the last few years that people will love like essex and dublin. these products are made using the same tanning extracts that we use in the shell cordovan — amazing stuff .
shell cordovan is vastly regarded as the finest leather in the world because of its bright luster, non - creasing grain character, great leather smell, durability, and ability to develop and keep these characteristics over time. however, it should not be overlooked by other leathers like chromexcel. both have their own unique qualities and values .
saphir greasy leather cream is designed for oiled leathers, such as horween' s chromexcel. these leathers are infused with oils during the tanning process and are distinguished for their rugged, natural look. most often used for hiking, mountain, and boat shoes, oiled leathers are typically a dark brown or reddish - brown and never waxed .
so why go through this long and complicated process, when almost all leather on the market is faster, easier – and, yes, cheaper – to make? to answer that question you need to touch, handle and appreciate chromexcel. even its looks stand out; it’s a “pull - up” leather, so creases and flexes add character as the stuffing oils redistribute themselves within the hide. hard use doesn’t leave it looking tired and shabby – it just makes it even more distinctive. chromexcel can be shined to a high gloss or left with a more subtle luster, as you prefer, and the oil and wax imparted by hot - stuffing mean any scuffs can be easily buffed out .
the horween leather company has set the standard for the highest quality leathers since 1905. we offer a wide range of tannages from our vegetable tanned genuine shell cordovan to sport leathers and footwear leathers, such as chromexcel. as always, all of our leather is processed at our location on the corner of elston and ashland in chicago, illinois, usa .
some info from here horween leather options with shell you will realise is has no' grain' at all. neither does it crease like typical cow leather dublin is said to be made using the same formula for shell cordovan, but with cow leather chromexcel is first chrome tanned, then retanned again like veggie tanned leathers and finally stuffed with waxes all 3 are actually heavily stuffed with oil and waxes so they all should exhibit' pull up' effects. they may scuff easily but most scuffs could be removed with ease too. some care guides for shell and chromexcel in here urltoken there are also cordovan, which i suppose is horse skin in general. only' shell cordovan' is used to name those horse arses from horween
chromexcel is a pull - up leather which highlights the contours and folds of the piece you' re making, giving it a more dynamic character than regular flat looking full - grain leather. because it is impregnated with a secret blend of oils (a tradition dating back over 90 years), it has a long lasting glow to it that never wears with age .
we live in a time where shortcuts are routinely taken in the production of materials, with the end result being a lesser product. that we have come to accept this as the norm is a little sad, but horween are not a company that subscribes to that way of doing business. you need only look at the chromexcel process to see just how involved it really is .
chromexcel is a horween leather known for it' s pull - up characteristics, nice wrinkling patterns, and deeply conditioned finish. a pull - up leather is a leather that changes colour when subjected to pressure from the inside. pull up leathers allow for easy treatment of scuffs. it' s made from both horsehide and cowhides and is a very tough, hard wearing leather .
ahh sweet, sweet horween leather. from the waxy chromexcel to the flawless grain of shell cordovan. no where else in the world can you source such a wide variety of unique leather for projects of all types. getting started with horween leathers can seem a little daunting but today we will try to set you on the right path by showing you some options for buying your first batch .
once the basic chrome tanning has been done the hides are hand - inspected, a step that includes sorting them by weight and weeding out any blemishes. then the real magic starts. chrome - tanned leather is durable and supple, but it doesn' t have a lot of character. chromexcel has bags of character, because there’s a lot more to come after the initial tanning is finished .
once the leather has been hot - stuffed it’s hung up to cool and air dry, which takes up to a week. then it’s ready to be dyed. chromexcel is colored by hand - rubbing with multiple coats of pigment. as well as giving it a deep, even color this contributes to its rich patina. finally it’s dried again; now, at last, it’s ready to be used .
chromexcel is leather (usually cow, but can be horse too) that' s tanned twice. first veg tanned, and then chrome tanned. this lets it retain the oils, and gives it a beautiful, smooth finish. it' s a pullup leather, which means that unlike most other leathers, it gets lighter with age. this is because the oils wear away at the stress points .
the key to chromexcel unique feel is vegetable retanning, which enhances the benefits of chrome tanning while overcoming its drawbacks. it’s possible to make leather using vegetable tanning alone, and the result feels amazing, but using both – “combination tanning” – makes for a more durable end product. horween use a carefully guarded blend of bark extracts for the retanning stage and the result is a soft but tough leather that’s returned to its natural color .
the hallway outside skip and nick’s offices is lined with framed pieces of super bowl game balls. the tannery is full of memorabilia, which nick often photographs for the company blog. he’s discovered decades - old customer lists with names like chrysler, studebaker and john deere, which once used horween leather for seals and gaskets. producing this “mechanical leather, ” along with chromexcel for shoes worn by the marine corps, kept the tannery busy during world war ii .
the horween leather company has been around since 1905, which would lead many people to assume that they must have made numerous changes to the way in which they do business in order to survive for such a long period of time in a competitive market. you might well be surprised to learn that their most famous tanning process, known as chromexcel, is done almost identically to the way it was done when the process was first put into lace back in 1911 .
chromexcel has a very high oil / wax / grease content. the whitish waxy look is what we call “bloom”. what is happening is that the wax starts to come to the surface causin g a cloudy / hazy look. you can very easily wipe this off or brush it to a very nice shine with a horsehair brush. no shoe polish required! bloom is a desirable characteristic as it means that the leather is properly nourished with greases / oils / wax .
when you are looking for specific colors, tannage, or source type (horse, cow, bison, calf) and are ready to buy at least 1 side you can contact horween’s direct - to - consumer wing called tannery row. be advised that there are usually substantial lead times. anywhere from a few weeks for standard chromexcel to 6 - 9 months for shell cordovan. make sure you ask about the lead time on your order so you can plan accordingly .
there are many varieties of chromexcel at this point - wooly, beaufort, cavalier, plainsman, huntsman, kudu, and horsefront, to name some. all have been developed with specific uses and attributes in mind, but all share many of the same processes and formulas as the original formula, and all are made by the same skilled and experienced craftsman. i say it all the time, and i can' t say it enough - ultimately the quality of our product relies on our tremendously capable employees .
there have been some very subtle changes made to the chromexcel way of doing things, but those tend to be more on the use of specific ingredients, as opposed to the process itself. for example, whale oil was commonly used as one of the ingredients, but horween decided that a new, more available and less controversial, oil be used in the production of this specific type of leather. think of it as a great recipe that has to be slightly altered when one or more ingredient is no longer available. you don’t notice any real difference at the end, especially if time is taken to ensure that the proper replacement is used .
chromexcel. one of my favorites, and probably my single favorite if i had to choose one. the picture above gives some idea of how long the formula has been around (and this journal is full of different trials and doesn' t even contain the original, standardized recipe). whether because it' s right, or because we' re just terribly stubborn, we' ve left the processes and formulas for many of our leathers largely unchanged. we have had to substitute some of the components that were traditionally used in small quantities - whale oil was replaced with another marine - creature derived oil, one that' s more available and not controversial .
this is where it starts to get interesting. wet blue hides are sorted for initial quality so that the proper
selections
are made - for grain character, weight / thickness, scratches, scars, brands, etc. next comes retanning, and it' s where the secrets begin. specific and proprietary mixes of bark extracts and natural agents are used to give chromexcel, and many of our leathers, its heavy vegetable retannage. the benefit of combination tanning comes from the specific attributes that both chrome and vegetable tanning impart. generally, chrome tanned leathers yield soft, supple, and durable leathers, while vegetable tanned leathers are round and full feeling, patina well, and are easy to coax into shapes using heat and moisture .
chromexcel is essentially a process, not a leather. i have i think 6 or 7 different types of horween chmxl in my shop - both bovine and equine leathers. horween calls it the' original pullup leather', and true i have some bovine chmxl with some of the most dramatic pullup you' ll ever see, but i also have some equine chmxl with almost no pullup, and it is really beautiful stuff. it is the leather that is attached to the sinew that eventually becomes shell cordovan - it is tanned with the shells for the first few weeks, and then it is seperated and finished on it' s own. beautiful satin lustre, tough as nails but supple and pliable, requiring no break in period .
if your leather is stiff, good way to go about breaking in your new boat shoes is to get them wet. after all, they are meant to be worn around boats. put on your shoes, get them wet and then let them dry wearing them. others prefer to apply oil to their boat shoes until they are saturated. then they wrap them in newspaper and let them dry in the shade. the oil will soften the leather which in turn will allow you to break them in without the pain. the chromexcel leather has already undergone this softening process with natural oils, so you can definitely skip that step. bear in mind, though, everything you do to break in your new shoes is done at your own risk .
the processes for making horween’s signature leathers like shell cordovan and chromexcel, a rich and versatile cowhide, can’t be rushed. shell cordovan comes from the inner membrane of the horse posterior. the horse butts are draped over rods and submerged in “pits, ” or low pools filled with horween’s proprietary vegetable tanning solution made from tree barks, for 30 days. after tanning, the hides are carefully shaved, a process that exposes the outline of the inner membrane, and steeped in a second pit of stronger solution for another 30 days. when they come out, they’re hand - oiled. then, after a three - month rest, they have to be re - wet and shaved again on a machine whose blade is controlled with a foot pedal .
this is true — we have seen peaked interest in our products. many americans are appreciating having one really nice thing as opposed to ten inexpensive, less nice things. further, there is a great demand in the apparel industry and other industries, like food, to know where your product comes from. there are not many american tanneries left and horween fills these needs .
a love for the symbolism of quality motivates me to enjoy the excellence of these products. i hope my labors are helpful to you. most photos are shot with a canon 6d and l glass and are not edited for color. what you see is what you get .
after dehairing the mixer is
limed
( actually re - limed at this point) to manage the reaction and then drained and washed. all of the water that we use, we treat. we have a fully functioning, epa compliant, city of chicago monitored, effluent treatment plant. and, being responsible and ethical producers, we take that very seriously .
the next step is
hot stuffing
- that is, the impregnation of the hides with oils, waxes, and greases that are solid at room temperature. stuffing is achieved through the use of steamed mills, and is the process that is responsible for the
pull - up
of this leather. pull - up is the temporary displacement of these oil and wax blends that cause a lightening of the leather. our philosophy that you need to use the best components to make the best leather is particularly evident in this department, where we create blends using products like food - grade beef tallow and cosmetic - grade beeswax .
horween leather company was founded in 1905. for more than 100 years and five generations our goal has been to make the world' s best leather. making the best means doing lots of little things right. it means never mistaking fastest or cheapest with the best. it means always using formulas that do not cut corners, and choosing components strictly for their quality .
horween leather offers an unparalleled blend of quality, consistency, responsiveness, and innovation. through the years, we have cultivated our experience to offer dynamic lines of leathers. our products include traditional, old world tannages and techniques, carefully updated with modern applications. today, our leathers are still made by hand, the same way as generations ago .
this specialized leather is treated with our own proprietary tannage and extracts, giving it the high performance characteristics demanded by professionals and amateurs alike. our unique tanned in tack ® provides excellent grip in all conditions, and can be revived by simply brushing the ball .
official football leather is a very important leather to us. this leather was developed and produced by arnold horween sr. after playing football professionally and head coaching the harvard football team. we’ve produced football leather continuously for more than 70 years .
we’re proud to produce the finest football, basketball, and ball glove leathers. we extend to this line the tradition of excellence and quality that all of our products are founded upon. we have had the opportunity to work with top sporting goods manufacturers to develop these leathers. our philosophy that the best leather is part of the best product translates very well into a market where skilled athletes view their equipment as precision tools. we’ve been diligent and thorough in producing these special leathers where no detail has been overlooked .
horween genuine shell cordovan® is the art of tanning at its finest. more than just a color, it is a very specific leather, from a particular part of a horsehide. the irregular oval shaped shells are tanned, stuffed, shaved, and then polished – a process taking at least six months. each shell is slowly steeped in gentle vegetable liquors. the shells are genuine hot stuffed then slicked onto glass frames to dry. each shell is hand curried and shaved by highly skilled artisans to expose the shell. dyes are hand rubbed on for a deep aniline finish. finally, the shells are hand glazed to achieve the rich, glossy look and feel prized by fine craftsmen .
essex is a vegetable tanned side leather that utilizes the same traditional tanning extracts as our genuine shell cordovan. essex, and its waxed versions, dublin and derby, took us nearly three years to develop and perfect. this tannage is marked by a high oil content and ages beautifully over time. the essex family of leather is very versatile and can be used in a wide variety of products .
our ball glove leather is a straight chrome tannage and is designed to meet the demanding expectations of professional athletes. this tannage is specifically formulated to yield the strength, durability, and temper that are ideal for repetitive use. only the very finest full grain hides are selected for this fully aniline, oiled leather .
we should take the best of everything; the best hides, the best oils, the best dyes and finishes – then we do whatever it takes to make that leather the best. the price goes on last, and if we cannot sell it for what it is worth, we should not make that leather
making the best means doing a lot of little things right. to ensure top quality finished goods, we start with top quality components. that means using native hides for the best grain and yields, premium grade oils, dyes, and retanning agents. our formulas cut no corners, and we are one of only a handful of tanneries in the united states that still processes hides from their raw, cured state to finished leather .
we should take the best of everything; the best hides, the best oils, the best dyes and finishes – then we do whatever it takes to make that leather the best. the price goes on last, and if we cannot sell it for what it is worth, we should not make that leather .
“ we always felt there was a right way and a wrong way to make fine leather. it takes us at least six months to make a cordovan shell. our cordovan could probably be made faster, and people might not even be able to tell the difference… but i can. ”
“as tanneries go we’re not the biggest, the fastest, or the cheapest, which means we need to be the best. our business is built on doing things other people don’t, won’t, or can’t. ”
“quality must be more than a word. it doesn’t belong to one company or one country, it doesn’t happen by chance, and it requires constant attention. it’s a contract between seller and buyer – an agreement that something is good and worth having. our greatest enemy is the phrase ‘it’s good enough’. ”
“our mission has always been to produce the highest quality product for our customers. it’s an honor to continue that tradition by making the best leather we can. when you put your name on something it has to be exactly right. ”
2015 north elston avenue | | chicago, il 60614 | | tel. (773) 772 2026 | | fax (773) 772 9235
shell cordovan was originally produced to hone straight razors as it was used for razor strops in the early 1900' s. it has been made on a daily basis in chicago by horween since 1905. shell cordovan is like a great wine that only gets better with age, except you can drink it every single day .
it' s definitely the best leather to use in any small leather good, especially for a wallet. the action your pocket has on the wallet with daily use leads to a polishing effect which allows the vegetable tanned shell cordovan to develop an amazing patina over time. as mentioned above, shell cordovan has a very beautiful mirror - like luster which can be brought back forever using different polishing methods. at ashland leather co. we use a modified version of the mac method to polish our wallets, along with saphir cordovan creme — this involves moisture, a lot of brushing, and a very small amount of polish .
the fat herbie double bifold below in natural shell cordovan will give the most dramatic patina of any leather .
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we use traditional techniques to make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible leather products. wear them well .
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normal waxed shoe polishes are not appropriate for use on oiled leather because their waxes would completely change the look of the leather. to nourish and renew oiled leathers, saphir greasy leather cream should be exclusively used .
saphir greasy leather cream is available in three colors: neutral, brown, and black. the brown polish contains a light pigment that will not
recolor
shoes but rather just fill in the finish; therefore, it is not necessary to achieve a
perfect match
with the brown saphir greasy leather cream like it would be a cream polish for a pair of calfskin dress shoes .
directions. first, clean your shoes using either a damp cloth or saphir leather cleaning soap. if you have previously applied a waxed polish, remove it using saphir reno' mat. allow the leather to dry, then apply a small amount of greasy leather cream onto your fingers or a chamois and massage into the leather using circular motions. once complete, allow to dry for 10 minutes. no buffing required .
handset icon made by gregor cresnar from urltoken is licensed by cc 3. 0 by
for over 90 years, we’ve used the same artisanal hot - stuffing formula to infuse these leathers with an oil and wax blend to create an extremely rich and durable leather, which is then hand - stained. this heritage leather features the natural leather grain, exhibits a rich pull - up, and retains softness and color for generations .
got two sides of horween seconds that were great! barely anything to make them seconds. great leather for an awesome price. i’ll be ordering more soon .
excellent to deal with. prompt response to messages and quick shipping. best of all, the hides are beautiful. i ordered a side of burgundy horween illini latigo last week – it’s just arrived and it’s perfect. thanks erin !
the quality of the leather here is impressive. i found exactly what i needed and it was shipped right away, these guys really know their stuff .
i ordered several sides from maverick and was very impressed with the friendly staff and their patience when i had questions. the leather is beautiful and i will definitely order more from them !
amazing leather and so easy to work with. i’ve only ordered three hides so far and i’ll be ordering two more this week because they have been so stunning and affordable. i’ve been torn between wanting other leather workers to order from maverick so they stay around and wanting to make sure the hides i want are available! good conflict to have because they are such a great company. really appreciate their presence in the leather world .
e - mail: a. wieberg @ urltoken hours: monday - friday 9am - 4pm cdt
© 2018 maverick leather company - we try our best to make sure each photo is as close to the true color as possible. despite color and lighting adjustments, all digital photos may vary from monitor to monitor. - developed by witzend consulting
the horween leather company is proud of the fact that it hasn' t updated its techniques in over a hundred years. most recent developments in leather tanning are all about cost and efficiency; horween have other priorities. they' ve been making high quality, naturally tanned leather since 1905 and they’re quite happy with the way it’s working out for them. when isadore horween founded the company back then he had a simple philosophy about quality :
“the price goes on last, and if we cannot sell it for what it is worth, we should not make that leather. ”
modern leather is usually tanned with synthetic chemical solutions, most often a solution of chrome salts – up to 80% of all leather uses this process. chrome tanning can be done in a day and the leather it produces is easily dyed. higher quality leather is often tanned with aldehydes; automobile upholstery and many expensive shoes are usually made with this type of leather. unfortunately real vegetable - tanned leather has become scarce and hard to find – but not at horween leather company .
all horween leather is still traditionally vegetable - tanned the old - fashioned way. it’s one of the few tanneries in the usa that still does the whole process in - house, starting with raw, cured hides and handling every stage between there and the end product. from selecting flawless, unblemished native hides to delivering a piece of perfectly tanned leather can take two months or more, depending on the exact process used. horween produce several styles of leather for different types of products but the quality is always the same .
© 2018 popov leather check out our sister company orange bridge supply co. for personalized keychains and bracelets !
review: thursday boot co. president boots - a gorgeous alternative to mainline heritage brands
we compare the nuance differences between two of the top leathers in the world made by the world famous horween tannery and used in many of the handmade products from da luca .
complete leather watch strap guide pt. 1: styles & history - nato, lined, panerai, rally styles
pricing and availability are based on tannage, weight (thickness), and order quantity. all leather is made to order - please contact us for more information .
this specialized leather is treated with our own proprietary tannage and extracts, giving it the high performance characteristics demanded by professionals and amateurs alike. the unique “tanned in tack” provides excellent grip in all conditions, and can be revived by simply brushing the ball .
genuine shell cordovan is the art of tanning at its finest. more than just a color, it is a very specific leather, from a particular part of a horsehide. the irregular oval shaped shells are tanned, stuffed, shaved, and then polished – a process taking at least six months. each shell is slowly steeped in gentle vegetable liquors. the shells are genuine hot stuffed then slicked onto glass frames to dry. each shell is hand curried and shaved by highly skilled artisans to expose the shell. dyes are hand rubbed on for a deep aniline finish. finally, the shells are hand glazed to achieve the rich, glossy look and feel prized by fine craftsmen .
, including the history of boat shoes, their characteristics, where to buy them, how to break them in, how to take care of them as well as how to wear them to best effect with the rest of your wardrobe .
the video is a bit more comprehensive than the written guide, so make sure to watch it. if you like it, please give us a thumbs up and share it. thank you very much !
the boat shoe, also known as the deck shoe and top - sider, has followed the well - trodden path from being purely work / utility wear to becoming a truly classic piece of men’s footwear (and women’s, too). in 1980, with the publication of the official preppy handbook by lisa birnbach the boat shoe began to be identified as an essential and integral part of the preppy style. boat shoes, however, are not just restricted to preppies but have been adopted by a large number of people and are a staple in many wardrobes. due to their unique design and construction they are not just great for boat decks but the perfect footwear for summer months .
before the advent of the modern boat shoe, sailors and boatmen alike struggled to maintain a firm foothold on the slippery decks of their boats. the shoes available to them were just not up to the task and as one can imagine this lead to frequent accidents, not to mention hilarious and embarrassing situations .
in the early 1930s, paul sperry, an ardent sailor, and boater, was struggling with this problem in his everyday life. one winter day in connecticut he took his dog, a cocker spaniel named prince, out for a romp and was amazed by prince’s grip while running across ice. the traction he managed to generate on the slippery surfaced intrigued him. paul figured that it had something to do with the pads of prince’s feet. upon closer examination he realized the cracks and grooves on prince’s feet formed a herringbone - like pattern that gave him grip. sperry then hit upon the idea of cutting similar patterns on the soles of the shoes he used while boating .
siping, the u. s. navy & u. s. rubber company
traditionally have mid - to dark - brown leather uppers. today, uppers are available in both canvas and leather in various colors and patterns .
traditionally feature a 360 - degree lacing system but are also available in other styles .
laces are traditionally made of the same materials as the uppers. now available with conventional laces .
traditionally have white, non - marking rubber soles; however they are now available in a variety of colors .
there are numerous ways to categorize boat shoes, but since the originals came from the u. s. , i created a list of
boat shoes that have a focus on quality and heritage, as well as a category for foreign companies, designer boat shoes, etc .
apart from the obvious, when out boating, boat shoes can be worn in a variety of ways. in everyday wear, they can replace your sneakers and loafers. one point on which there has been much - heated debate is whether they should be worn with or without socks. boat shoes were originally meant to be worn without socks (for practically while boating) but in an urban setting, according to one school of thought, they should be worn with socks. however, most people do not wear them with socks, and this contentious issue is best left to your personal preferences and comfort since at the end of the day there is no right or wrong answer. if you are concerned that your bare feet will sweat too much, but you don’t like the look of socks, you may want to try a cotton insert .
some purists only wear either the sperry top - sider (more specifically either the original boat shoe in classic brown or the billfish 3 – eye in dark tan), or the quoddy men’s boat shoe. these styles most resemble paul sperry’s original design. however, there are a variety of high - quality manufacturers who offer comparable models (see table above). for those less concerned with the traditional look, boat shoes are available in an array of colors and pattern combinations which allow you to wear whatever suits your style best. these interesting videos show how quoddy and rancourt produce their boat shoes in maine: urltoken urltoken
chromexcel is registered trademark for a kind of aniline leather with a history of production that goes back over a century in the us . the process of creating it requires " at least 89 separate processes taking 28 working days " at the horween leather company . 
chromexcel is registered trademark for a kind of aniline leather with a history of production that goes back over a century in the us. the process of creating it requires " at least 89 separate processes taking 28 working days " at the horween leather company.
chromexcel is registered trademark for a kind of aniline leather with a history of production that goes back over a century in the us. the process of creating it requires " at least 89 separate processes taking 28 working days " at the horween leather company.