tartine
“buying a loaf of tartine bakery’s bread is nothing less than a pilgrimage... ”
tartine bakery, 600 guerrero street at 18th, (415) 487 - 2600; urltoken .
chad robertson of tartine bakery and cafe is seen in their new space in the heath ceramics building .
blue bottle coffee and tartine bakery will not be merging, bringing a surprising end to their engagement .
“ tartine ” in le trésor de la langue française informatisé (the digitized treasury of the french language) .
“tartine manufactory, a magical place to eat pasta, bread, ice cream, and basically everything you ever wanted. ”
tartine began with a mission: bring bread with an old - soul into the lives of our friends and family in california .
in 2010 we published tartine bread. the baking community was in shock that we would share our secret to the iconic tartine country loaf. for us, the magic is in the endless thought and experimentation that goes into making each loaf; learning to push the boundaries of what we do, so more people can enjoy it .
for tartine, it was the chance to use the coffee company’s infrastructure to build its brand. but robertson and prueitt will still expand in the coming year. they plan to open a restaurant / bakery, tartine manufactory, on 18th street in the mission district next spring, as well as projects in los angeles, new york and tokyo .
there are some striking parallels at the nearby bar tartine. prueitt did the design work herself, and has created a warm environment that conjures up places in new york' s soho .
i first fell in love with tartine' s scones last spring, when i was in town reporting a story, and several people insisted i get myself over there. logically, tartine' s scones shouldn' t be any better than anyone else' s, because the recipe is pretty much standard: a ton of butter, some flour and sugar, not much else .
tartine is a thoughtful expression of modern craft through good food and warm experiences. we are a product of our communities and our friends. every morning bun and country loaf out of our doors reflects this .
d. 05bartartine _ 0337 _ db. jpg venison at bar tartine. event on 1 / 18 / 06 in san francisco. darryl bush / the chronicle mandatory credit for photog and sf chronicle / - mags out
d. 05bartartine _ 0335 _ db. jpg salad at bar tartine. event on 1 / 18 / 06 in san francisco. darryl bush / the chronicle mandatory credit for photog and sf chronicle / - mags out
d. 05bartartine _ 0338 _ db. jpg cod at bar tartine. event on 1 / 18 / 06 in san francisco. darryl bush / the chronicle mandatory credit for photog and sf chronicle / - mags out
d. 05bartartine _ 0341 _ db. jpg dessert at bar tartine. event on 1 / 18 / 06 in san francisco. darryl bush / the chronicle mandatory credit for photog and sf chronicle / - mags out
steve kopp, who formulated the wine list at bar tartine, must be a lover of esoteric, value - priced wines. his exciting list has some wines that will stump the average diner, and perhaps even oenophiles .
chad robertson of tartine bakery and cafe is seen in their new space in the heath ceramics building on friday, sept. 19, 2014 in san francisco, calif. robertson hopes to open the space which will include a... more
d. 05bartartine _ 0352 _ db. jpg dining area to right of bar eating area bar tartine. event on 1 / 18 / 06 in san francisco. darryl bush / the chronicle mandatory credit for photog and sf chronicle / - mags out
d. 05bartartine _ 0032 _ db. jpg owners elisabeth prueitt and chad robertson in their new restaurant, bar tartine. event on 1 / 18 / 06 in san francisco. darryl bush / the chronicle mandatory credit for photog and sf... more
d. 05bartartine _ 0350 _ db. jpg chef andy kitko smiles after preparing a dish in the kitchen at bar tartine. event on 1 / 18 / 06 in san francisco. darryl bush / the chronicle mandatory credit for photog and sf... more
there' s a graciousness about the food and feel of bar tartine that translates to the service. the staff is generally helpful and knowledgeable, and on our visits prueitt was always on the floor, checking things out and bringing little almond meringues with the check .
fans of busy tartine bakery on guerrero street soon will have another cafe nearby in which to enjoy baked goods, sandwiches and pastries. owners chad robertson and elisabeth prueitt have leased the space that briefly housed urban forage, a vegan restaurant that closed about three months ago .
d. 05bartartine _ 0032 _ db. jpg owners elisabeth prueitt and chad robertson in their new restaurant, bar tartine. event on 1 / 18 / 06 in san francisco. darryl bush / the chronicle mandatory credit for photog and sf chronicle / - mags out less
san francisco now has one of the best french - style bakeries as well — run by, no less, a transplanted new yorker named elizabeth pruitt. the place is tartine bakery, and it is — like many things new and exciting — in the mission district .
d. 05bartartine _ 0350 _ db. jpg chef andy kitko smiles after preparing a dish in the kitchen at bar tartine. event on 1 / 18 / 06 in san francisco. darryl bush / the chronicle mandatory credit for photog and sf chronicle / - mags out less
the merger announcement turned heads in the northern california food world and beyond, as both companies appeared poised for global expansion, with projects in the united states and japan. for blue bottle, it was a potential opportunity to sell tartine bread and other pastries at its shops .
prueitt adds that while chefs have taken a liberal hand to recent interpretations of this french staple, tartine' s recipe has stayed pretty true to its roots, though
we add finely chopped onions sweated in melted butter to our béchamel, which actually is a soubise .
the two popular bay area artisan food companies announced their union in april, but the partnership has fallen through. according to a statement from tartine owners chad robertson and elisabeth prueitt and blue bottle’s james freeman, the two sides “decided that remaining separate companies makes the most sense. ”
chad robertson of tartine bakery and cafe is seen in their new space in the heath ceramics building on friday, sept. 19, 2014 in san francisco, calif. robertson hopes to open the space which will include a bakery, cafe and ice cream shop early next year. less
tartine ,
by elisabeth m. prueitt and chad robertson (chronicle books, 223 pages, $ 35), takes you to the kitchens and ovens of one of san francisco' s premier bakeries and sets out to make the home baker into a master of breads and patisserie .
tartine bakery, 600 guerrero st. (near 18th street), san francisco, (415) 487 - 2605. open 7: 30 a. m. - 7 p. m. tuesday - saturday and from 10 a. m. - 4 p. m. sunday .
in addition to tartine' s signature pressed sandwiches, the new cafe will serve charcuterie, cheese plates and a few hot entrees .
there are lots of places like this in manhattan ,
prueitt says ,
where you can get something good to eat and a glass of wine .
in this version, luscious, creamy fromage blanc and chewy gruyère are mated with niman ranch applewood - smoked ham atop a thick slice of tartine' s french bread, then crowned with béchamel sauce, a hint of nutmeg, and black pepper, and oven - toasted to a bubbly, crispy perfection .
after only three months, bar tartine is so popular that it' s often like this - - standing room only. when customers call a day or two ahead for a reservation, they' re lucky to get a 5: 30 p. m. or 9: 30 p. m. seating .
the manufactory is an idea that grew out of tartine and its ever - evolving philosophy on flavor, craft and human health. we hope the platform of collaboration allows many friends, thought leaders, chefs and farmers to challenge the industry, create beautiful food and improve the livelihoods of every link in the chain .
it was a pre - may day demonstration gone haywire ,
says mission mission editor allan hough of the group of hundreds of protesters who vandalized the mission last night until 11 p. m. the group' s members, many of whom were dressed in black from head to toe, were caught paint bombing four barrel, locanda, and tartine bakery, painting anarchy symbols on the window at farina, breaking a window at bar tartine, and smashing the windows of other businesses and (mostly luxury) cars on their way to the police station. mission loc @ l has images of the damage inflicted to several restaurants .
the young threesome stood at the waist - high bar tables at bar tartine in the mission district, enjoying a three - course meal. i' m not sure why there aren' t bar stools - - maybe they take up too much room or maybe it' s a trend in the making - - but the group didn' t seem to mind .
later, after i snap out of it, i remember that i do have one tiny quibble with the presentation of tartine' s crunchy sir, an addition that would vault it to the top three of my top five. throw a tart little cornichon on the side of my plate and i could easily die happy - - and thirsty - - on that desert island .
we will always continue experimenting and creating new books. sharing our learnings and of course our recipes along the way. we are so excited to share our latest book - tartine all day. elisabeth prueitt’s gift to home cooks everywhere. an all - in - one repertoire of wholesome, straight - forward recipes for the way we want to eat morning, noon, and night .
là, the croque monsieur. tartine takes the pedestrian parisian snack - - its literal translation is
crunch, sir
- - and elevates it to a whole new level. the place usually offers three varieties daily (inventive adaptations that currently involve asparagus and caramelized onions, and roasted black and white trumpet mushrooms), but the traditional one, to my way of thinking, is the
last week, tartine bakery opened in the corner space once home to lady baltimore bakery and, before that, carl' s bakery. the latest incarnation is from pastry chef elizabeth prueitt and baker chad robertson, the pair behind bay village breads. their first effort was wood - fire baking in point reyes. they went on to open the acclaimed bay village bakery in mill valley in 1999 .
anyone who has been to elisabeth prueitt and chad robertson' s tartine bakery on guerrero street will understand the instant draw of the couple' s full - service restaurant. the bakery' s exquisite pastries and exceptional breads quickly vaulted them onto everyone' s
best of
list. no one seems to mind standing in line, even if the counter staff seems to be in a constant state of disorganization .
desserts (all $ 7) - - or anything else that comes from the bakery, such as the almost - charred bread - - are a strength. the espresso and chocolate pot de creme is reminiscent of tartine bakery' s rich pudding that always ambushes my best intentions. the sticky date pudding is much better than it sounds, resembling a rich version of persimmon pudding, surrounded by a warm toffee sauce and a cool scoop of ice milk .
the partners haven' t decided on a name yet, but hope to open the doors of the 1, 600 - square - foot cafe at 561 valencia st. (between 16th and 17th streets) in mid - july. but this location will differ in that it will combine tartine' s style of food with a wine bar. it will be open from 11 a. m. to 11 p. m. , with breakfast to be added later .
using a wood fired brick oven, chad robertson baked bread and elisabeth prueitt created rustic, elegant pastries using many of the techniques they had learned abroad. almost twenty years after opening tartine bakery, much has changed, but the quality remains. as we grow, our steadfast commitment to that bread with an old - soul deepens. so to does our commitment to challenge the status quo. to question how we work, bake and collaborate, and push to offer you more .
it could be that other bakeries don' t use as much butter as they should, or it could be that tartine' s ingredients are better: ms. pruitt and her husband, chad robertson — who works mostly on the bread side — insist they determinedly rely on local suppliers for nearly everything, and use organic ingredients whenever possible. in any case, the scones are tender (ms. pruitt knows enough not to overhandle the dough, of course), they' re crumbly, they' re just sweet enough .
but i digress. the point is, tartine, the french bakery opened last summer by liz prueitt and chad robertson, who previously ran woodfire baking in point reyes and mill valley, makes so many things that might go on my desert (and dessert) island top five - - a nearly perfect croissant, chocolate bread pudding to make you weep, cake aux olives (a slice of savory
cake
made with olives, gruyère, vermouth, and white wine), and a country french bread already legendary in some circles - - that it was downright painful to whittle the selection to the croque monsieur .
bar tartine 561 valencia st. (near 16th street), san francisco; (415) 487 - 1600 dinner 5: 30 - 10 p. m. monday - wednesday, until 11 p. m. thursday - saturday. beer and wine. reservations and credit cards accepted. difficult street parking. overall: two and a half stars food: two and a half stars service: two stars atmosphere: two and a half stars prices: $ $ $ noise rating: bomb pluses: comfortable surroundings. mostly excellent savory courses and desserts. minuses: the staff' s telephone manners can be lax when customers call for a reservation. the place is exceptionally noisy at peak times. on busy nights, the staff can lose its focus and the food can suffer .
window. _ taboola = window. _ taboola | | [ ]; _ taboola. push ({ mode:' thumbnails - c', container:' taboola - interstitial - gallery - thumbnails - 4', placement:' interstitial gallery thumbnails 4', target _ type:' mix' }); _ taboola. push ({ flush: true }) ;
books06 _ local please photograph 7 local cookbooks, individually and in a group .
books06 _ nonlocal please photograph 7 non - local cookbooks individually, against white background, with shadow .
northern california is fertile ground for food writers and chefs to grow their crop of cookbooks, and recent weeks have seen a bumper crop that gives holiday gift - shoppers a wide choice .
the plumpjack cookbook; great meals for good living ,
by jeff morgan (rodale, 210 pages, $ 35), is about as accessible as a chef / restaurant - based book can get. in laying out a breakfast - to - dessert road map for good eating in the style of the plumpjack group' s restaurants (including plumpjack and balboa cafes in san francisco and squaw valley, jack falstaff in san francisco, and farm and boon fly cafe in sonoma), veteran writer and winemaker morgan takes pains to avoid ingredients and techniques that might intimidate home cooks .
example: a recipe for orange and olive oil cake tells you how to segment oranges and lemons if you have good knife skills and how to process them in an easier manner if you don' t. that cake, incidentally, is deliciously interesting, we found when we tested it that it could use 5 to 10 minutes more baking time .
many of the recipes fall into the comfort food category, and many are for whole courses rather than single dishes: southern fried chicken breasts with wild mushroom gravy and red vegetable hash; rib - eye steak with red wine sauce, salt - roasted potatoes and blue lake bean salad; beef carpaccio with lemon aioli, truffle oil and asparagus salad; pan - roasted monkfish with basmati rice and coriander broth .
and in your glass
sidebars recommend suitable wines for all but a few dishes. one of those exceptions is the roasted banana muffins in the breakfast chapter, a dish that is as delicious as it is simple. i plan to use that roasting technique next time i make banana bread .
flash in the pan / stove - top cooking is a quick, cool and ...
cooking in common / egged on / spring ushers in a bushel of ...
prueitt and robertson, who acquired near - cult status soon after they baked their first artisanal breads, pastries, cakes and cookies in a tiny, ramshackle bake house in point reyes station, spare no detail in guiding their readers through the intricacies of the craft. one has to wonder, though, why they chose croissants as the lead recipe of the volume. these are the iconic breakfast pastry par excellence, but the recipe is daunting: five pages of print detailing step after step leading up to a perfect, buttery / flaky crescent .
fortunately, most recipes that follow are not nearly as labor - intensive. the yummy scones? i can do those. ditto the galettes and tea cakes, and probably the fruit tarts, though the rose geranium leaves for the blackberry tart may be a tad hard to come by .
biba' s italy: favorite recipes from the splendid cities ,
by biba caggiano (artisan, 320 pages, $ 29. 95), is the next best thing to having the sacramento restaurateur and author be your tour guide through the great cities of italy and their most noteworthy restaurants .
the author of many cookbooks, caggiano is an easy writer who sprinkles her recipes with enough local color and humorous asides to please the armchair cook as much as the stove - side home chef. in the introduction to a fried baby artichoke recipe, for example, caggiano writes that in florence there is an old saying that everything fried is good, even the soles of shoes .
other cities visited in text and recipes include rome, bologna, milan and venice. a chapter of basic recipes and a list of sources conclude this charmingly designed book .
big small plates ,
by cindy pawlcyn, with pablo jacinto and erasto jacinto (ten speed press, 370 pages, $ 35), is the napa valley super chef and entrepreneur' s praiseworthy - - and successful - - attempt to bring the small - plates trend into the home kitchen. you need several of these dishes to make a meal, and all of them are meant to be shared among family and friends. the book, pawlcyn' s third, gives a great deal of credit to her coauthors, brothers from oaxaca who are chefs and partners in two of her napa valley restaurants mustards and cindy' s backstreet kitchen .
the color photographs are earthy rather than artsy, which fits the robust fare: ahi and shiitake mushroom wontons in broth; bubbly baked brie and asparagus with toasted hazelnuts; salmon, halibut and scallop ceviche with coconut; mini tres leches cakes with mexican chocolate sauce. at the end of the book, pawlcyn suggests menus for the four seasons and for a few themed parties .
although the authors draw on many ethnic inspirations, this is a quintessentially california book that fits our roving palates and casual life style .
coffee cakes: simple, sweet, and savory ,
by lou seibert pappas (chronicle books, 132 pages, $ 18. 95), is a perfect stocking stuffer by this peninsula author known for thoroughly researched single - subject books. even a beginning cook might feel encouraged to try these generally uncomplicated recipes that range from standards - - banana, macadamia nut and coconut coffee cake, for example - - to the unexpected - - olive - herb - potato fougasse with black olives or italian cheese and herb pinwheels that would pair deliciously with a picnic salad or a cold - weather soup at supper .
esalen cookbook: healthy and organic recipes from big sur ,
by charlie cascio (gibbs smith, 207 pages, $ 34. 95), highlights the cooking of this center that has been a shrine of the human potential movement since the mid - 20th century .
the esalen kitchen attempts to mirror the wholeness esalen strives to establish in the human experience, putting as much focus on the cooks and their connectedness to each other, their fellow esalen population and their self - image as on the ingredients. esalen is not devoted to vegetarianism, though there are many meatless dishes in the institution' s daily menus and in this book .
esalen does promote organic food, until about half of what' s served on site coming from the group' s gardens and farm. though incorporating health - food items like sucanat (dehydrated cane juice), cashew milk and whole - wheat flour, the food is by no means spartan, as evidenced by dishes such as smoked salmon spanakopita, herb - laced crab cakes, milan - style lasagna and cayenne - spiced chocolate tantric pie. tantric pie? it' s human potential embracing kitchen potential .
morning food ,
by margaret s. fox (ten speed press, 202 pages softcover, $ 19. 95), is the second edition of the book first published in 1989 with recipes from fox' s restaurant at the time, cafe beaujolais in mendocino. however, the book has been so completely revised, it might as well be a new publication .
the recipes may be different, but the philosophy is the same. without resorting to outlandish ideas, fox challenges the notion that morning food has to be limited to the narrow range of cereals, eggs, certain meats and pancakes and traditional breakfast pastries .
not that some of these don' t find a place in her repertoire, but a banana - pecan waffle may be seasoned with cinnamon and nutmeg and parade as a sundae, topped with a scoop of ice cream and a pineapple sauce. eggs may change their usual profile and start the day in tofu - dressed egg salad sandwiches with a little crunch from walnuts. and as for pancakes, fox suggests berry - filled custard crepes. it' s a book worth getting up for .
holiday shoppers looking for cookbooks - - the one - size - fits - all gift - - have a lot of choices this year. here are other recent standouts from non - bay area authors .
about professional baking ,
by gail sokol (thomason delmar, 482 pages, $ 55), is the next best thing to enrolling in a professional baking program. full of charts and color photographs both of finished products and techniques, this is a splendid working tool. interviews with baking pros from many regions add human interest and open up different perspectives besides those of the author. from the intricacies of yeast doughs to pate sablee and tempering chocolate, this volume tells all .
arabesque: a taste of morocco, turkey & lebanon ,
by claudia roden (knopf, 342 pages, $ 35), explores the sophisticated cuisines of these countries, which the cairo - born author knows intimately. roden, whose previous seven books ranged from jewish cooking to regional italian, puts the cuisines of these mediterranean regions into historic context, explaining such phenomena as the mezze culture and the tagine. realistic rather than over - styled color photographs add to the book' s appeal .
baking: from my home to yours ,
by dorie greenspan (houghton mifflin, 514 pages, $ 40), is a seductive book. well organized, engagingly written and in a user - friendly format, it will tempt even reluctant bakers to tie on an apron and whip up something fragrantly delicious. there are few fancy terms here, but there are homey treats such as dimply plum cake, rugelach or caramel crunch bars. that is not to say that the hefty tome doesn' t include some sophisticated fare: a chocolate armagnac cake with pecans and boozy prunes or a cranberry lime galette. a chapter on spoon desserts - - puddings, custards, crisps and ice creams - - complements the cakes, cookies, muffins and more .
black forest cuisine ,
by walter staib (running press, 328 pages, $ 35), proves that this picturesque southwest german region with its proximity to austria, france and switzerland, has a lot more to offer than cuckoo clocks and the ubiquitous black forest torte. staib, a native of the area, is the chef - owner of philadelphia' s city tavern and has written two books of recipes from that historic restaurant. aside from tempting pastries, for which the region is famous, there are savory dishes such as carrot soup with tapioca, maultaschen (a kind of black forest ravioli), pork goulash and sauerkraut in a casserole that shows hungarian influences, and a rich salsify gratin .
cradle of flavor ,
by james oseland (norton, 384 pages, $ 35), is a meticulously researched collection of recipes from indonesia, malaysia and singapore. oseland, the executive editor of saveur magazine, lived in the spice islands, where he immersed himself in the cuisine for two decades. this book does not compromise or westernize indigenous recipes, and the layout is, unfortunately, a trifle challenging, with recipes frequently requiring the user to turn pages. but if it' s the real thing you want, this book delivers .
modern caribbean cooking ,
by wendy rahamut (interlink, 322 pages, $ 35), puts the spotlight on a vibrant cuisine that was a model of fusion long before that concept gained wide acceptance. utilizing the ample seafood and tropical fruit indigenous to the area, the cooking of these islands incorporates elements of amerindian, african, asian and european approaches, resulting in a lively, robust mix. rahamut, who lives in trinidad and is a food writer, television personality and cooking teacher, has adapted some traditional recipes to assuage today' s nutrition concerns. for the most part, ingredients are widely available, though you might have to seek out ethnic markets for fruit such as sapodilla (sapote) or vegetables like taro and cassava .
whole grains ,
by lorna sass (clarkson potter, 324 pages, $ 32. 50), is a fine primer for anybody eager to listen to the chorus of nutritionists - - including those who devised the new federal food pyramid - - recommending americans consume more whole grains. sass, award - winning author of books dealing with topics from food history to vegetarian and vegan cooking, explains the nutritional profile and characteristics of everything from amaranth to farro, spelt and teff. she follows this with general cooking instructions for specific grains and detailed recipes .
the following new cookbooks are among those that have been recommended in recent reviews in the food section and in book review. you can read those reviews by clicking on the links that accompany today' s story on sfgate. com .
in great taste: fresh, simple recipes for eating and living well ,
by evelyn h. lauder
joy of cooking ,
75th anniversary edition, by irma s. rombauer, marion rombauer becker and ethan becker
the lee bros. southern cookbook ,
by matt lee and ted lee
instructions: preheat oven to 350°. oil two 9 x 5 - inch loaf pans with olive oil .
use a vegetable peeler to remove zest from 1 orange and the lemon. in a small saucepan, blanch zests in boiling water for 30 seconds. let cool, chop fine and reserve. peel remaining orange and discard skin. remove white pith from both oranges and the lemon. if you have good knife skills, slice each orange segment free from its membrane and chop segments into small pieces. otherwise, separate orange segments and chop them up. repeat with the lemon, removing membrane and seeds. reserve along with chopped orange segments .
in a large bowl, whisk eggs, sugar and salt until eggs are pale and doubled in volume, about 5 minutes. in another bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and baking soda. mix in almonds. stir dry mixture into egg batter and blend thoroughly. add citrus zest and segments; stir well. stir in olive oil until blended evenly .
evenly divide cake mix between loaf pans. bake for 35 - 40 minutes, or until cakes are firm and a toothpick inserted comes out dry. cool on a rack for 10 minutes, then turn out and cool completely .
per serving: 265 calories, 4 g protein, 30 g carbohydrate, 15 g fat (2 g saturated), 53 mg cholesterol, 189 mg sodium, 2 g fiber .
biba caggiano admits in
biba' s italy
that she is not generally a great liver lover, but says she finds this venetian dish irresistible. she suggests serving it with grilled, fried or roasted polenta .
heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. when the oil is nice and hot, add the onions and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until soft and golden brown, about 25 minutes. with a slotted spoon, transfer the onions to a bowl, letting the juices and oil fall back into the skillet .
return the skillet to medium high heat and add 1 tablespoon of the butter. as soon as the butter begins to foam, add the liver without crowding (cook in 2 batches if necessary) and cook, stirring, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. season with the salt and pepper .
return the onions to the pan and stir until the onions and liver are thoroughly combined, 1 - 2 minutes. transfer the contents of the skillet to a warm serving platter .
add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the skillet and stir, scraping up the brown bits attached to the bottom of the pan. add the parsley, stir one or twice, and pour the butter sauce over the liver and onions. serve hot .
per serving: 485 calories, 34 g protein, 9 g carbohydrate, 34 g fat (8 g saturated), 636 mg cholesterol, 443 mg sodium, 2 g fiber .
from
big small plates ,
by cindy pawlcyn, with pablo jacinto and erasto jacinto .
to make the pancake dough: set your mixer up with the dough hook attachment. combine the flour and oil in the bowl, add the boiling water and mix until the dough comes together. turn the dough out onto a smooth, dry surface and knead until smooth. wrap the dough in plastic wrap while it' s still hot and let rest at room temperature for 15 minutes .
after the dough has rested, roll it into a log and cut into 16 pieces. if you use a pasta machine, set it on number 4 and run each dough circle through once. reduce the machine to number 6, give each circle a quarter turn, and run it through the machine one more time. you' ll end up with thin pancakes, about 6 inches in diameter. alternatively, you could roll the dough out with a rolling pin till paper thin. (the dough rolls out very easily with a rolling pin, as it is tender and moves well, so a pasta machine is not necessary .) stack the pancakes between pieces of parchment paper or waxed paper, and refrigerate until needed .
to cook the pancakes: heat a dry griddle over medium heat. i usually use a stovetop cast - iron griddle or an electric griddle and make a batch of as many as will fit without touching. turn the pancakes back and forth until the dough is dry and no longer translucent, about 2 minutes. when they are finished they should be caramelized around the edges with a few brown specks. wrap them in a cloth napkin or kitchen towel and set them aside .
combine all sauce ingredients in a bowl and mix well. keep covered and refrigerate if you are making ahead .
trim the pork of all sinew and fat. working from the thin end of the tenderloin, cut the meat diagonally into thin slices (you' ll get oval pieces about 1 1 / 2 inches long). stack the slices, 4 or 5 of them at a time, and cut crosswise into 1 / 4 - inch strips or a bit less. keep refrigerated until needed. (you can do this up to a day in advance. )
about 20 minutes before you' re ready to serve, wrap the pancakes in a damp towel and warm them in a 375° oven for 10 - 15 minutes, checking now and then to see that the towel is still moist. meanwhile, prepare the filling .
for the filling: heat the oil in a very large pan over medium - high heat. when the pan is hot, stir - fry the pork in batches, adding oil as needed to coat the bottom of the pan, so the pork does not get steamy but is almost crisp. remove the meat from the pan and reserve. now toss the cabbage, peppers and celery into the pan and stir - fry just until hot, 30 seconds to 1 minute. don' t overcook the vegetables - - they should still be crunchy. add just enough of the sauce to moisten the vegetables, and toss until well mixed. put the reserved pork back into the pan and cook until pork is heated through again. add more sauce if needed. add salt and pepper to taste. toss in the scallions and chopped cilantro at the very end .
place the pancakes on a flat surface. fill each with some of the mu shu filling and fold into a cone, tucking the small end under. place two mu shu burritos on each plate and garnish with the reserved cilantro sprigs .
per serving: 320 calories, 18 g protein, 36 g carbohydrate, 12 g fat (2 g saturated), 34 mg cholesterol, 835 mg sodium, 3 g fiber .
kingfish, a popular san mateo seafood restaurant with new orleans flair, is coming to san francisco. opened by the avenir restaurant group, kingfish (201 south b st. , at second avenue) is now owned by kathy petrin, an original investor in avenir, and her brother, robert kirkbride .
the san francisco kingfish is scheduled to open around june 1 in the former location of vixi' s and max' s diamond grill, at 128 king st. (between second and third streets), across from the ballpark and next door to momo' s .
kirkbride said the food will be the same as in san mateo, serving lunch and dinner straight through with an all - day menu .
the partners are remodeling the current bar area, adding an oyster bar and moving the bar itself. the 200 - seat dining room will fan out from an 18th century fountain in the center, and, as in san mateo, the walls will be decorated with southern folk art .
the dining scene in mill valley has undergone two major changes. early last month, the revamped cascade bar & grill (44 e. blythedale ave. , near sunnyside avenue) closed and will be replaced by a new restaurant from some of mill valley' s buckeye roadhouse team .
bill higgins and bill upson of the real restaurants group, which owns the buckeye, in partnership with buckeye chef robert price and buckeye managing partner peter schumacher, will turn the former cascade space into bungalow 44 .
cascade had replaced mudbugs, which had replaced the beloved avenue grill. the food at bungalow 44 will be american comfort - - shades of the avenue grill .
we' re going to make it cozy and comfortable ,
higgins says .
appetizers will be $ 7 - $ 11; entrees, $ 15 - $ 22. the restaurant seats 60 inside, with 20 more seats on a patio, weather permitting. management is interviewing now for a chef de cuisine .
virtually across the street from bungalow 44, first crush, a wine - oriented restaurant owned by shah bahreyni and shahram bijan, morphed last week into mi casa, a mexican restaurant concentrating on foods of the yucatan peninsula .
the chef will be mario velasquez, who worked at cafe marimba in san francisco and also at the now - closed ondine in sausalito. appetizers will be $ 7 - $ 9; two tamales are $ 7 - $ 7. 50; two tacos are $ 6. 50 - $ 7; and large plates are $ 11. 95 - $ 13. 95 .
bahreyni says they made the change because of the demand for family dining in mill valley. mi casa (24 sunnyside ave. , near blythedale avenue) is open daily for lunch and dinner. the partners' first crush in san francisco remains open at 101 cyril magnin st. , at ellis street .
adam timney, former chef de cuisine at eos and most recently chef at cityscape in the san francisco hilton, has rejoined chef arnold eric wong, this time at bacar (448 brannan st. , between third and fourth streets), which wong co - owns. not far away, at fringale (570 fourth st. , near brannan street), chef marc rasic has left to teach at the california culinary academy. his replacement is thierry clement, who worked with chef daniel patterson at elisabeth daniel and frisson .
clement will execute the tried - and - true fringale menu of duck confit, tuna burger and frisee salad, but will also reflect fringale' s bistro style with specials such as coq au vin and short ribs braised in red wine (both $ 19). he' s also created some interesting - sounding dishes like an appetizer of escargot served in fried potato cups ($ 13) and star - anise - spiced pear tarte tatin ($ 6) .
in the mission, chef marcella lew has left andalu (3198 16th st. , at guerrero street), and owner calvin schneiter is now behind the stoves. he says his chef de cuisine, alexandro rodriguez ,
will help run the kitchen .
before becoming an owner, schneiter cooked at boulevard and opened foreign cinema. on steuart street' s restaurant row, jeremy james has hired chef katsuo nagasawa to replace departed chef shotario kamio at ozumo .
nagasawa, trained in both french and japanese cuisines, is probably best known for cafe de rey in marina del rey .
with nagasawa in charge, james hopes to expand the menu at ozumo, going beyond sushi and robata to include izakaya - - pub - style food, or small a la carte dishes that pair well with drinks .
real estate broker paul stanners, known as the man to see if you were selling or buying a restaurant in san francisco, passed away 10 days ago. he fought cancer for the last two years, but continued working on deals until the end .
in the 1970s, stanners co - owned a bookstore - bistro called vanity fair in embarcadero 3. gary danko was his first lunch chef and worked for him for three years .
stanners was a terrific source of restaurant news, industry gossip and warm friendship. i will miss him foremost as the good friend that he was .
window. _ taboola = window. _ taboola | | [ ]; _ taboola. push ({ mode:' thumbnails - c', container:' taboola - interstitial - gallery - thumbnails - 5', placement:' interstitial gallery thumbnails 5', target _ type:' mix' }); _ taboola. push ({ flush: true }) ;
window. _ taboola = window. _ taboola | | [ ]; _ taboola. push ({ mode:' thumbnails - c', container:' taboola - interstitial - gallery - thumbnails - 10', placement:' interstitial gallery thumbnails 10', target _ type:' mix' }); _ taboola. push ({ flush: true }) ;
window. _ taboola = window. _ taboola | | [ ]; _ taboola. push ({ mode:' thumbnails - c', container:' taboola - interstitial - gallery - thumbnails - 15', placement:' interstitial gallery thumbnails 15', target _ type:' mix' }); _ taboola. push ({ flush: true }) ;
window. _ taboola = window. _ taboola | | [ ]; _ taboola. push ({ mode:' thumbnails - c', container:' taboola - interstitial - gallery - thumbnails - 18', placement:' interstitial gallery thumbnails 18', target _ type:' mix' }); _ taboola. push ({ flush: true }) ;
even while standing, the group noshed its way through a citrus salad with radishes, almonds and olives ($ 8), mealy pommes pont - neuf with bearnaise sauce ($ 6), crisp potato sticks that are like creamy mashed potatoes inside and several main courses, all while drinking a bottle of wine .
the compact interior that seats 48, plus 10 at the bar, is stylish and comfortable in an organic way. the long, narrow space is dominated by a large chandelier of elk antlers near the storefront windows. she used a discerning eye and picked up many of the fixtures on ebay, including two impressive globe - like metal sconces that flank the thick white marble bar. when combined with the worn dark - wood floor, polished walnut table and the original wood support columns, the room has that stylish lived - in look that' s so popular today .
chef andy kitko, who worked at cafe boulud in new york and gary danko in san francisco, mans the utilitarian open kitchen adjacent to the bar. the pace is frantic, especially on a weekend, when hungry diners are backed up waiting for a table .
the crush has taken its toll on the new kitchen team, and the quality of the frequently changing menu can vary depending on the night. it' s never bad, but it ranges from just ok items such as the lonely looking arancini (rice balls) stuffed with fennel, goat cheese and roasted red peppers ($ 6) to spectacular combinations such as braised pork cheeks dusted with bread crumbs and poised on a mound of sparkling wine - braised savoy cabbage ($ 13) .
presentations also run the gamut, from rustic braised lamb shank ($ 20) in a pool of chickpeas, dates and harissa to a sophisticated roasted guinea hen ($ 23). that dish features slices of breast centered on a large white plate and fanned around a flattened ball of confit leg tightly wrapped in thick - veined cabbage. one night the blend was as refined as you' d find at gary danko; on another, the sauce was thick, chunky and over - salted, and the confit had a bland sweetness .
the kitchen consistently excels at salads, whether earthy mushrooms, lentils and frisee topped with a poached egg ($ 13), or a delicate hillock of young dandelion greens with soft fromage blanc, apple, fennel and prosecco vinaigrette, plated as you might expect to find in a tea room. the beet salad is equally stylized, pairing gorgonzola dolce, endive, pear and caramelized pecans ($ 8) .
the chef' s bold approach is spotlighted in several appetizers, including a pork terrine en gelee ($ 8) where the mosaic - like slices are placed on grilled bread and served with sauce verte, pickles and mustard. kitko also blends fresh and earthy elements in a thinly sliced truffled salami served with a delicate salad of chicory shoots ($ 12) .
pig' s feet ($ 12) in all their gristly, gelatinous glory are formed loosely into a patty fried to a mahogany hue and served with a generous dollop of gribiche tartare sauce flowing down the side. the combination is so rich that the accompanying herb salad is a welcome relief .
grilled baby octopus basquaise ($ 13) brings three whole sea creatures floating in a chunky stew of red and yellow peppers and sausage coins. i cut off a generous bite and started to chew, and chew and chew. the flesh seemed to expand with each bite, leaving me with a feeling of trying to devour a dense wad of rubber bands .
the octopus was one of the least successful appetizers on my three visits; one of the most successful was the house - smoked sable ($ 14). kitko lays the fatty white slices of fish over a potato salad and tops it all with creme fraiche and a jet - black mound of american sturgeon caviar. the juxtaposition was rich, light, earthy and refined. it shows off an elusive balance that distinguishes a great combination .
kitko generally offers about 16 starters and just five main courses. i loved the hearty flavors in the black bass ($ 24), two skin - on fillets seared to crispness and stacked over a mound of fennel, artichokes and lemon confit. the salmon displays some of the same rustic and light elements, with brussels sprouts, salsify and a coveted square of fatty belly confit ($ 23) all brought together with a deftly made rich red wine sauce .
you can also see the fine - dining influence with the venison ($ 24), where the loin is served pleasantly rare, offset by potato puree and red wine - braised cabbage. a golf - ball size crepinette with a deep musty flavor adds a focal point to the plate .
shaker lemon tart, an inch - thick round of flaky pastry filled with thin slices of whole fruit, is sweet, puckery, slightly bitter and totally addictive. i' m tired of the ubiquitous dense chocolate torte, but here it' s done with finesse, served with delicate coins of candied kumquats and earl grey ice cream .
unfortunately, getting in the door isn' t always as pleasant. i' ve had three different friends tell me about poor or indifferent treatment when they called for a reservation or arrived at the restaurant. one was told to come at 5: 30 and when the party arrived on time, the door was locked. the host was inside, but the staff left the confused diners standing at the door for about 10 minutes past opening time. another friend called for a weekend reservation and met with a snippy personality. on another occasion, my party made a same - day reservation for 6 p. m. and was asked for a credit card to guarantee it .
it' s an attitude that' s totally at odds with the rest of the experience - - a case of sour beginnings and sweet endings .
most wines are less than $ 40, slightly below average markup. while they' re not bargains, the wines are well selected, and most people are sure to find one they' ve never heard of, much less tasted .
there are 18 wines by the glass and 14 aperitif and dessert wines, a hefty number for a 48 - seat restaurant. the eight whites, priced from $ 6. 50 to $ 12. 75, are from all over the globe: napa, sacramento, burgundy, loire, australia, new zealand and italy .
in sparkling wines, kopp not only offers the required champagnes, but also lambrusco, sparkling shiraz, prosecco and a frissant wine from france .
all price ranges are represented, from the popular 2005 woop woop verdelho ($ 24) to the coveted 2003 torbreck
struie
shiraz ($ 82). in all, there are about 100 bottle selections .
in the domestic category, kopp offers some real talkers: 2003 topanga vineyards grenache blanc from the sacramento delta ($ 34); 2003 stubbs vineyard chardonnay from marin county ($ 42); 2003 tablas creek esprit de beaucastel rhone blend from paso robles ($ 30 for a half - bottle) and 2001 babcock vineyards
moda toscana
sangiovese ($ 38) .
the knowledge of the staff varies, but when we asked about one by - the - glass selection, the waiter offered a taste. on another occasion, the waiter encouraged diners next to us to order something they hadn' t tried, saying that if they didn' t like it, the wine would be replaced .
with an attitude like that, there' s nothing to lose. and why would you want to spend $ 18 to bring your own ?
: excellent two stars: good one star: fair (box): poor $ inexpensive: entrees $ 10 and under $ $ moderate: $ 11 - $ 17 $ $ $ expensive: $ 18 - $ 24 $ $ $ $ very expensive: more than $ 25 prices based on main courses. when entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. one bell: pleasantly quiet (under 65 decibels) two bells: can talk easily (65 - 70) three bells: talking normally gets difficult (70 - 75) four bells: can only talk in raised voices (75 - 80) bomb: too noisy for normal conversation (80 +) chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. all meals are paid for by the chronicle. star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. ratings are updated continually based on a least one revisit.
tartine is a bakery in san francisco , california , located in the mission district , at 600 guerrero street ( at 18th street ) . writing in the new york times , food columnist mark bittman called it his favorite bakery in the u.s . in 2008 its owners , elisabeth prueitt and chad robertson , won james beard foundation awards as the best pastry chefs in america , after previously being nominated for this award in 2006 and 2007 . tartine ( the word means open faced sandwich in french ) opened in 2002 , on the site of two previous bakeries ; its owners , prueitt and robertson , had previously run the bay village breads bakery in point reyes and mill valley . after the success of their san francisco bakery they also opened the nearby bar tartine and have published a book of recipes from their bakery ( tartine , chronicle books , 2006 , isbn 978-0-8118-5150-3 ) . as part of a may day demonstration and riot in 2012 , anarchists paint-bombed the bakery and broke its windows . the anarchists shouted " yuppies out ! " in april 2015 , it was announced that tartine 's bakery operations would with merge with blue bottle coffee and that the bar tartine restaurant would be sold to its chefs . however , the merger was called off later the same year . 
tartine is a bakery in san francisco, california, located in the mission district, at 600 guerrero street (at 18th street). writing in the new york times, food columnist mark bittman called it his favorite bakery in the u.s. in 2008 its owners, elisabeth prueitt and chad robertson, won james beard foundation awards as the best pastry chefs in america, after previously being nominated for this award in 2006 and 2007. tartine (the word means open faced sandwich in french) opened in 2002, on the site of two previous bakeries; its owners, prueitt and robertson, had previously run the bay village breads bakery in point reyes and mill valley. after the success of their san francisco bakery they also opened the nearby bar tartine and have published a book of recipes from their bakery (tartine, chronicle books, 2006, isbn 978-0-8118-5150-3). as part of a may day demonstration and riot in 2012, anarchists paint-bombed the bakery and broke its windows. the anarchists shouted " yuppies out! " in april 2015, it was announced that tartine's bakery operations would with merge with blue bottle coffee and that the bar tartine restaurant would be sold to its chefs. however, the merger was called off later the same year.
tartine is a bakery in san francisco, california, located in the mission district, at 600 guerrero street (at 18th street). writing in the new york times, food columnist mark bittman called it his favorite bakery in the u.s. in 2008 its owners, elisabeth prueitt and chad robertson, won james beard foundation awards as the best pastry chefs in america, after previously being nominated for this award in 2006 and 2007. tartine (the word means open faced sandwich in french) opened in 2002, on the site of two previous bakeries; its owners, prueitt and robertson, had previously run the bay village breads bakery in point reyes and mill valley. after the success of their san francisco bakery they also opened the nearby bar tartine and have published a book of recipes from their bakery (tartine, chronicle books, 2006, isbn 978-0-8118-5150-3). as part of a may day demonstration and riot in 2012, anarchists paint-bombed the bakery and broke its windows. the anarchists shouted " yuppies out! " in april 2015, it was announced that tartine's bakery operations would with merge with blue bottle coffee and that the bar tartine restaurant would be sold to its chefs. however, the merger was called off later the same year.